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Thinking about installing an in-Dash navigation system in my 4runner. I spend a fair amount of time out in the cuts on forest service roads and such far out of cell coverage. I keep a physical atlas in the car and so far I've been able to do just fine on a mix of that, other paper maps, and just studying the routes before leaving home, but it would be nice to have a real GPS system that works outside of cell coverage. I'm not trying to drop much real $$ on it, though. Does anyone know if any of the sub-$300 units have decent maps programmed beyond just the basic city maps? It's not much use to me if it doesn't have coverage of the backcountry. POIs including gas stations would be nice as well. Do these units typically have a means of updating maps or expanding the packages?

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On 24/08/2019 at 8:00 AM, diehardlionfan said:

I guess my first mistake was actually expecting to converse with someone here. It proves difficult when trying to communicate with an immature child typing furiously on their smart phone from Mums basement. 

You need to check your meds Junior. The ones your on don’t seem to be working.

You brought up conventional motor oil. You asked who still uses it. Apparently given the amount still sold quite a few people.

Despicable? I’m a problem? You don’t know me but your sure quick to judge. Ignorance isn’t a pretty thing little tugboat. Car recycling is big business and if not for recycled parts and steel we would have a far worse problem. Recycling of parts allows vehicles to remain on the road long after new OEM parts aren’t produced. If you actually had any idea about older cars and restoration you’d know that. You would also know how expensive it is to machine parts when OEM and recycled parts aren’t available. 

I’m curious. Do you work extra hard at being a judgemental, immature, ***? Or, does it just come natural?

Given your responses you seem to want to have discussions with yourself. So be it, I expect, given your attitude you do many things by yourself.

Have fun junior, You’re a grade A piece of work.

Car "recycling" is an inherently wasteful and energy intensive business, "junior".  There is literally no argument against that.  It's simply wasteful. Compared to cars that *don't* need to be recycled.  It's cars that weren't designed properly in the first place, being transformed into other cars through energy intensive processes...or actually...other downcycled goods.  Efficiency is in longevity and sustainability.

If you think anyone is actually using "conventional" dinosaur oil for anything that actually matters...you're a dinosaur yourself.  It's legitimately difficult to find truly *non-synthetic* oils on a shelf anywhere these days.  Even the non-synthetic oils have mild synthetic modification.  If you're buying pure non-synthetics...you're talking racing oils essentially.

 

And yes, being judgmental comes very naturally to me.  I know how to snuff out false narratives like you seem to want to put forward.

 

 

 

On 30/08/2019 at 5:02 PM, Nex_Gen said:

I saw the guy post about how unreliable Toyotas were a few pages back, then mentioned Buick for reliability with straight conviction. Wanted to put in my two cents but decided not to. I'm not surprised the thread has turned into this.. 

So sue me for actually describing current Toyota conditions.  They're cruising on reputation, and if you don't like hearing that...go buy one.  But don't come crying to me when it has very average at best repair issues under warranty...and isn't designed remotely, to thrive beyond that warranty mileage figure...like old Toyotas they built their reputation were.

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On 9/8/2019 at 5:10 AM, Tugboat said:

Car "recycling" is an inherently wasteful and energy intensive business, "junior".  There is literally no argument against that.  It's simply wasteful. Compared to cars that *don't* need to be recycled.  It's cars that weren't designed properly in the first place, being transformed into other cars through energy intensive processes...or actually...other downcycled goods.  Efficiency is in longevity and sustainability.

If you think anyone is actually using "conventional" dinosaur oil for anything that actually matters...you're a dinosaur yourself.  It's legitimately difficult to find truly *non-synthetic* oils on a shelf anywhere these days.  Even the non-synthetic oils have mild synthetic modification.  If you're buying pure non-synthetics...you're talking racing oils essentially.

 

And yes, being judgmental comes very naturally to me.  I know how to snuff out false narratives like you seem to want to put forward.

 

 

 

So sue me for actually describing current Toyota conditions.  They're cruising on reputation, and if you don't like hearing that...go buy one.  But don't come crying to me when it has very average at best repair issues under warranty...and isn't designed remotely, to thrive beyond that warranty mileage figure...like old Toyotas they built their reputation were.

Cars under $75-100k have always been designed to fall apart after the warranty runs out. Some better than others, some worse. I’ve seen it 1000 times. But you’re right, Toyota used to be at far better.

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2018 Audi Q5 Premium Plus - $33,450 - 42000 miles

 - OR - 

2019 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring Reserve - $30,900 - 2000 miles

Mazda Pros:

  • More torque, better turning radius 
  • Fewer miles, lower price, lower cost of ownership
  • More soft-touch cabin materials, HUD, ventilated seats
  • Adaptive cruise control and lane keep assist
  • More rear leg/head room and cargo space

Audi Pros: 

  • Nicer transmission and suspension
  • Panoramic sunroof
  • Nicer infotainment and digital instrument panel

 

Really can't decide. The Mazda is the better value with same performance, but the Audi transmission, virtual cockpit and panoramic sunroof are so nice...

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On 12/10/2019 at 8:41 AM, pnies20 said:

Cars under $75-100k have always been designed to fall apart after the warranty runs out. Some better than others, some worse. I’ve seen it 1000 times. But you’re right, Toyota used to be at far better.

That's definitely not true, at all.  There were certainly some cars built like that, or worse...but there were also cars built way beyond that standard.  Cars that hold together very well, long beyond warranty duration.

The margins have become so thin though, the market has generally sought out any corners they can cut to win on price now.  These days you *do* have to spend $100k to get a car that's "overbuilt" it seems.  Hasn't always been the case though.

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On 18/10/2019 at 9:52 AM, Heimdallr said:

2018 Audi Q5 Premium Plus - $33,450 - 42000 miles

 - OR - 

2019 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring Reserve - $30,900 - 2000 miles

Mazda Pros:

  • More torque, better turning radius 
  • Fewer miles, lower price, lower cost of ownership
  • More soft-touch cabin materials, HUD, ventilated seats
  • Adaptive cruise control and lane keep assist
  • More rear leg/head room and cargo space

Audi Pros: 

  • Nicer transmission and suspension
  • Panoramic sunroof
  • Nicer infotainment and digital instrument panel

 

Really can't decide. The Mazda is the better value with same performance, but the Audi transmission, virtual cockpit and panoramic sunroof are so nice...

How much warranty does that leave on the Audi?  That'd be a big deciding factor for me.  Like...it's not even close in the feel and quality of everything about the vehicles if they're both brand new.  But Audi and VAG products in general...you're probably gonna want some warranty.  Random electrical system elements will malfunction, and it will be more expensive than you think it should be to fix.

That said...you're gonna have a much better experience at an Audi dealership than a Mazda one.

 

Lane keep assist is a pretty tough black mark to overcome though, either way.

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11 hours ago, Tugboat said:

That's definitely not true, at all.  There were certainly some cars built like that, or worse...but there were also cars built way beyond that standard.  Cars that hold together very well, long beyond warranty duration.

The margins have become so thin though, the market has generally sought out any corners they can cut to win on price now.  These days you *do* have to spend $100k to get a car that's "overbuilt" it seems.  Hasn't always been the case though.

Sure there are exceptions to the rule, but for the most part...

I had a friend who had an ‘88 Toyota that lasted for like 365k

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On 10/18/2019 at 9:52 AM, Heimdallr said:

Really can't decide. The Mazda is the better value with same performance, but the Audi transmission, virtual cockpit and panoramic sunroof are so nice...

Everything about driving a German car is more expensive. They're nice, but be ready for little things to start falling apart around 100k miles. Those little things add up to be a lot of money, especially if you don't do any work yourself. The interior doesn't hold up as well either. An oil change is going to run you $70-$80, and it doesn't hold up as long as in most other cars. I love driving a VW with a turbo, but I won't buy another one.

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On 21/10/2019 at 7:00 AM, MrDrew said:

Everything about driving a German car is more expensive. They're nice, but be ready for little things to start falling apart around 100k miles. Those little things add up to be a lot of money, especially if you don't do any work yourself. The interior doesn't hold up as well either. An oil change is going to run you $70-$80, and it doesn't hold up as long as in most other cars. I love driving a VW with a turbo, but I won't buy another one.

Yeah.  Quite honestly, if you're not a real DIY type person with time to burn or don't have a lot of tools available or familiarity with troubleshooting automobiles - electronics and sensors in particular...and/or aren't comfortable doing at least some basic work like brakes, oil changes, plugs and coils, figuring out what's leaking and why, etc...you might have a bad time with an Audi off warranty.  I can personally vouch for the idea that Audi will consistently put at least 3 random panels or inaccessible bolts in the way of whatever you're trying to do...and probably worse on modern examples.

A dealership will charge you a premium rate to do your troubleshooting for you if you can't figure it out yourself.  The experience will be far nicer, but you'll pay for it.  Worth it to some people though.

 

As for oil changes...they can get expensive too.  Not because it requires special "synthetic oil", because every dang car under the sun does these days.  But because the dealership are gonna charge you a bit more in labour and gratuity.  Though i used to get a pretty sweet deal on oil changes at the Audi dealership because they had basically a flat rate for "oil change".  Until the 2.0T became the engine that's in like 9 out of 10 Audis these days and i think they realized they were selling me oil at a discount rate.  Even still...i can do an oil change with ~7 quarts and an OEM filter for ~80 bucks Canadian.  Watching for sales on oil and spending an hour and a half undoing and redoing finicky screws to get at stuff.

Fundamentally though...if the idea of a $70-80 oil change scares you off...the Audi probably isn't for you.

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2 hours ago, Tugboat said:

As for oil changes...they can get expensive too.  Not because it requires special "synthetic oil", because every dang car under the sun does these days.

The problem with the VAG turbo engines and oil is that they use 0w40 full synthetic. If you don't use it, and try the 5w30 that they use for a basic oil change, you're oil is burned off the dipstick at around 1,500 miles. I get 5000-6000 using the 0w40. You can at lest get the Amazon Basic oil for $35-$40 for a case, and that makes it a cheaper change.

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On 23/10/2019 at 9:04 AM, MrDrew said:

The problem with the VAG turbo engines and oil is that they use 0w40 full synthetic. If you don't use it, and try the 5w30 that they use for a basic oil change, you're oil is burned off the dipstick at around 1,500 miles. I get 5000-6000 using the 0w40. You can at lest get the Amazon Basic oil for $35-$40 for a case, and that makes it a cheaper change.

I've got a VAG twin turbo engine, and it definitely burns oil...but not the way most do.  I've just got this yucky seepage out the back my cam chain tensioner gaskets, especially on the passenger side.   Sucks because it's super minor and doesn't warrant tearing everything apart to fix...but it smells bad inside.  It's 170k strong and doesn't actually burn internal oil.  I can go the full 12k without adding oil easily, though i often don't even hit that interval and just change it annually instead anyway.

I've found some oils blacken a lot worse than others though.  Castrol Syntech stuff is the worst for it.  Which...even the Syntech Castrol stuff is not *always* a true full synthetic apparently is pretty reliable, obviously, the Euro formula stuff.  A lot of people seem to miss that detail.  But it's the dealership go-to in most cases.

 

This last change i've done had Penz Platinum Euro with VW502 certs.   It has a really unique odor as it burns off the back of my overcomplicated motor.  But it's Ferrari Oil or whatever.  And i got it for basically half price on a pair of jugs.

Also, doing really well in maintaining oil temps.  Better than anything i've seen from Motul, Total, Royal Purple, or Audi service Castrol i think???

 

My dipstick is so hard to read off of though.  Thanks to basically scorching from previous oils.

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1 hour ago, Heimdallr said:

Thanks, I pretty much decided to skip the German luxury options, and go with Mazda. I trust Japanese SO much more than German cars.

In my opinion the new top trim CX-5 is comparable to the Q5, RDX and X3 anyway. So nice. 

I mean, that sucks...but you'll probably happier, or at least less hassled as a result.

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I just realized my car will be paid off next month. Thought it was next year and next month so this is quite the surprise. That said, it's obviously time to not have a car payment for a year, save up for a down payment and repeat the process. Right now I have a smaller car b/c of my commute to work and gas mileage was important at the time.... the most important. Now, not so much b/c I just don't care. I'm a taller guy so the small car is starting to affect my back at times. Thinking of going mid-sized SUV particularly the Nissan Rogue.

Anyone have any opinions on that or other whips to test drive? I do have some stipulations.

Android Auto is a must so no Rav4s for me.
I will never drive Ford, Chevy (especially them), or Dodge.
Sunroofs must be available on the model (yeah, I'm weird)

If y'all have some opinions, I'd like to hear them

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41 minutes ago, JTagg7754 said:

I just realized my car will be paid off next month. Thought it was next year and next month so this is quite the surprise. That said, it's obviously time to not have a car payment for a year, save up for a down payment and repeat the process. Right now I have a smaller car b/c of my commute to work and gas mileage was important at the time.... the most important. Now, not so much b/c I just don't care. I'm a taller guy so the small car is starting to affect my back at times. Thinking of going mid-sized SUV particularly the Nissan Rogue.

Anyone have any opinions on that or other whips to test drive? I do have some stipulations.

Android Auto is a must so no Rav4s for me.
I will never drive Ford, Chevy (especially them), or Dodge.
Sunroofs must be available on the model (yeah, I'm weird)

If y'all have some opinions, I'd like to hear them

Looks like the Jeep Compass offers android auto (also Grand Cherokee if you have the $$). My Jeep has held up well, as well as both my parents' cars.

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