The Car Thread

[Tugboat]

On 06/05/2020 at 5:32 AM, fraziafraze07 said:

Thank you kind sir.  That's the plan of attack I took at the dealership--figured I'd see what they said about it in another 5,000 miles. It's not causing lots of oil loss at the moment, not even enough to cause any puddles.  Just didn't know if this was the sort of thing where a seemingly minor issue could lead to a lot more headache down the road, because a $600 fix seems to be more than just a minor issue.   

The biggest thing is just...keep a bottle of whatever oil your car takes in the trunk at all times.  *Just in case*.  Pull the dipstick (if it still has one?) or push the buttons every few gas fill-ups, and make sure the oil level is holding solid.

[MDY10]

Hey everyone, quick couple question for y’all! 
i have a 2019 STI and I was wondering a few things, I’ll throw them out there and if you know any of them just answer that part.. obviously lol 

 

1. Is a BOV as bad as they say for this car? Would a Bypass valve be better? From what I’ve gathered, the blow off valve will release pressure back into the atmosphere which then makes your engine work harder to rebuild that boost. With a BPV it recirculates into your engine and you don’t lose any of that pressure (maybe some but not as much as a BOV). I’ve also seen people get one that can do both. Just curious if anyone has any input on this, and what they’d recommend. As much as i love that BOV sound, it’s more important to keep the car running as smoothly as possible. 
 

2. What are those “typical STI problems” and when do I need to start looking out for them? Ever since I started to learn about These Subaru’s I’ve also read and heard a lot about ringland failure, Knock, and some other things that always happen.. Has anyone experienced certain problems that typically happen at Around A certain mileage? I’m currently at 18,000. 
 

3. I have an access port, but haven’t done anything else to the car yet.. so why am I getting knock? I have a stage 1 map for 93 octane (jersey) and I still get quite a bit of knock. A few times my DAM has also shifted and I can’t understand why it’s happening if I haven’t done anything to it.
 

4. what are some things you’d buy right off the start to avoid any future problems? Things such as fuel lines or catch cans or a boost control

 

5. I’m having a problem with my door. It’s closed, however my dash shows it’s open and won’t show me my digit speedometer because it says it’s open lol I opened the door and took off that part covered in rubber or plastic that covers that thing that gets pushed in when the door closes. I unplugged it and cleaned it and put it back and it still shows it’s open. On occasion while driving it just shuts off.. no idea why it’s doing this but does anyone know a way to fix it? I’d take it to the dealer but I’d rather not go out if it’s not urgent at the moment. 
 

Thanks in advance!! 

[bigbadbuff]

Not sure if anyone has any experience with older classic cars.

I have an opportunity to buy a 1986 Camry with ~120k miles on it. CLEANNNNN

 

Any idea on how much it would be worth?

[MrDrew]

1 hour ago, MDY10 said:

Hey everyone, quick couple question for y’all! 
i have a 2019 STI and I was wondering a few things, I’ll throw them out there and if you know any of them just answer that part.. obviously lol 

It sounds like you're trying to find the balance between tuning your car, and reliability. There really isn't one. Every time you add more power, you put more stress on the entire drivetrain. While it might be able to handle it, it's still wearing things down faster. You also kill resale value by tuning a car because nobody wants a car that somebody else tuned. Dealerships also don't care if you put $200k into it, they're not paying for your work on it if you try to trade it in. If it's your daily driver, and you're not tracking it, don't go too far with upgrades. If you are tracking it, and it's your daily, you might want to reconsider. Especially with a car that expensive.

I personally say to wait until the warranty runs out, and the car is paid off, before tuning it. After that, have a blast.

1. Neither really does enough the power to matter. It's more about the sound. You're still building pressure when you're on the gas either way.

2. Subarus are all pretty reliable, but the STi is at the bottom of their list. They took a 177HP engine, and tuned it to 340HP. It's a lot of extra stress, even if they did try to upgrade things to handle it. I know there was a higher than average total engine failure with the 2019 specifically, but everything else I've heard about was the little stuff that could go wrong with any Subaru.

3. Who's tune did you get? You really shouldn't have knocking on a stage 1. Most stage 1 stuff shouldn't make you change anything. It should just be a bump in power and/or economy.

4. I'm on the opposite side. If you want less problem, buy less things.

5. It sucks to have to go out right now, but they get really picky with a car under warranty. It's probably something simple, like replacing the switch. If you mess with it, or replaced the  switch yourself, and it causes any problems, they could completely void the warranty. You could do everything right, but there was something wrong with the part you bought, and it did something as stupid as blow a fuse, they could just blame you for everything. It sucks, but it's usually best to let them fix anything that would be under warranty.

[MrDrew]

16 minutes ago, bigbadbuff said:

Not sure if anyone has any experience with older classic cars.

I have an opportunity to buy a 1986 Camry with ~120k miles on it. CLEANNNNN

 

Any idea on how much it would be worth?

Depends on the price. It's going to have old car stuff go wrong, but the engine in those things go forever (If it's the 4cyl 22R). If it was taken care of, and only has 120k, it's good reliable transportation.

Value is hard on something like that. It's almost a 35yr old car, that isn't a collectable. It's just a good car. I looked at a couple sites, and I saw two of the same year. Both are really clean in the pictures, had just a little more miles, and they were asking $9k (125k miles) for one, $6,500 (140k miles) for the other. I wouldn't pay that, since they were $11k brand new, but $2-$3k would be worth it.

[bigbadbuff]

1 hour ago, MrDrew said:

Depends on the price. It's going to have old car stuff go wrong, but the engine in those things go forever (If it's the 4cyl 22R). If it was taken care of, and only has 120k, it's good reliable transportation.

Value is hard on something like that. It's almost a 35yr old car, that isn't a collectable. It's just a good car. I looked at a couple sites, and I saw two of the same year. Both are really clean in the pictures, had just a little more miles, and they were asking $9k (125k miles) for one, $6,500 (140k miles) for the other. I wouldn't pay that, since they were $11k brand new, but $2-$3k would be worth it.

I would try to flip it ideally. I didn’t know if i paid 3k for it and i could sell it for 5k.

 

I works at a dealership and we are having an employee auction for it because there’s been interest in it.

[MDY10]

5 hours ago, MrDrew said:

It sounds like you're trying to find the balance between tuning your car, and reliability. There really isn't one. Every time you add more power, you put more stress on the entire drivetrain. While it might be able to handle it, it's still wearing things down faster. You also kill resale value by tuning a car because nobody wants a car that somebody else tuned. Dealerships also don't care if you put $200k into it, they're not paying for your work on it if you try to trade it in. If it's your daily driver, and you're not tracking it, don't go too far with upgrades. If you are tracking it, and it's your daily, you might want to reconsider. Especially with a car that expensive.

I personally say to wait until the warranty runs out, and the car is paid off, before tuning it. After that, have a blast.

1. Neither really does enough the power to matter. It's more about the sound. You're still building pressure when you're on the gas either way.

2. Subarus are all pretty reliable, but the STi is at the bottom of their list. They took a 177HP engine, and tuned it to 340HP. It's a lot of extra stress, even if they did try to upgrade things to handle it. I know there was a higher than average total engine failure with the 2019 specifically, but everything else I've heard about was the little stuff that could go wrong with any Subaru.

3. Who's tune did you get? You really shouldn't have knocking on a stage 1. Most stage 1 stuff shouldn't make you change anything. It should just be a bump in power and/or economy.

4. I'm on the opposite side. If you want less problem, buy less things.

5. It sucks to have to go out right now, but they get really picky with a car under warranty. It's probably something simple, like replacing the switch. If you mess with it, or replaced the  switch yourself, and it causes any problems, they could completely void the warranty. You could do everything right, but there was something wrong with the part you bought, and it did something as stupid as blow a fuse, they could just blame you for everything. It sucks, but it's usually best to let them fix anything that would be under warranty.

Hmm.. It is my daily driver, and I’m currently looking for a cheap option with good gas to kind of ease up the miles and gas when I’m going to work and back. I would love to do some big upgrades but 1. It gets pretty damn expensive and 2. I agree that the more you do the more that can happen. and I guess 3. The warranty lol I doubt I’ll go with anything crazy, I just got some axel back tips for the exhaust, an intake, and the accessport. None of which requires a professional tune nor voids a warranty. I think I’ll stay away from anything that’ll require that or void the warranty. 
 

As for my current tune, I don’t have one other than the tune from my Accessport. Before with the stock map from factory, I still got knock. I put in the exhaust tips and the intake so I tuned it to stage 1. It’s been running way smoother but still get the occasional knock. 
 

And for the door you’re probably right, I’ll have to just have them do it. I’m hoping I can go to any Subaru dealership because the other issue was being a couple hours from the one I bought the car at. 
 

i appreciate the feedback man!! 

[TLO]

13 hours ago, MDY10 said:

 

2. What are those “typical STI problems” and when do I need to start looking out for them?

Burning during urination and oozing sores mainly. @mission27 has more experience in this realm than I.

[MDY10]

2 minutes ago, TLO said:

Burning during urination and oozing sores mainly. @mission27 has more experience in this realm than I.

When I was typing that post It definitely crossed my mind that someone might say something smart to that Hahaha that was gold

[mission27]

6 hours ago, TLO said:

Burning during urination and oozing sores mainly. @mission27 has more experience in this realm than I.

You nailed it

[MrDrew]

22 hours ago, MDY10 said:

And for the door you’re probably right, I’ll have to just have them do it. I’m hoping I can go to any Subaru dealership because the other issue was being a couple hours from the one I bought the car at

You don’t have to take it back to where you bought it. The warranty is through Subaru, not the dealership. Extended warranties can be different, but you’re nowhere close to that yet. 
 

If your tune doesn’t effect the warranty, is one that stays on an OBD2 device, or stays hidden, have them look at the knocking. That shouldn’t be happening with, or without, the tune. If it’s engine related, it would definitely be covered

[Tugboat]

On 20/05/2020 at 9:43 AM, MDY10 said:

Hey everyone, quick couple question for y’all! 
i have a 2019 STI and I was wondering a few things, I’ll throw them out there and if you know any of them just answer that part.. obviously lol 

 

1. Is a BOV as bad as they say for this car? Would a Bypass valve be better? From what I’ve gathered, the blow off valve will release pressure back into the atmosphere which then makes your engine work harder to rebuild that boost. With a BPV it recirculates into your engine and you don’t lose any of that pressure (maybe some but not as much as a BOV). I’ve also seen people get one that can do both. Just curious if anyone has any input on this, and what they’d recommend. As much as i love that BOV sound, it’s more important to keep the car running as smoothly as possible. 
 

3. I have an access port, but haven’t done anything else to the car yet.. so why am I getting knock? I have a stage 1 map for 93 octane (jersey) and I still get quite a bit of knock. A few times my DAM has also shifted and I can’t understand why it’s happening if I haven’t done anything to it.
 

5. I’m having a problem with my door. It’s closed, however my dash shows it’s open and won’t show me my digit speedometer because it says it’s open lol I opened the door and took off that part covered in rubber or plastic that covers that thing that gets pushed in when the door closes. I unplugged it and cleaned it and put it back and it still shows it’s open. On occasion while driving it just shuts off.. no idea why it’s doing this but does anyone know a way to fix it? I’d take it to the dealer but I’d rather not go out if it’s not urgent at the moment. 
 

Thanks in advance!! 

 

1. BOVs sound so stupid and awful, and aren't really of any value unless you're running a gargantuan turbo or something anyway.

3. You shouldn't be knocking on a mild "off the shelf" tune on a basically stock car.  If you are, it's probably a garbage tune.

5. Have you tried opening all of the doors, and then closing them again?

[Tugboat]

Has anyone here actually brought back to life, an engine block that is sitting in a field for a long time and basically half destroyed?

 

I went for a run the other day, and came across an old destroyed truck.  I wish there was a way to bring it back...but it was so ****ed up.  There was an actual hole in the side of the block.  Which made me assume it's not salvageable at all.  But i kinda want to.  Plus, it makes me want to do my run around it to look and stop and see and pretend it's not hopeless.

 

But there's no actual way to patch a hole in an iron block, is there?

[MrDrew]

15 hours ago, Tugboat said:

But there's no actual way to patch a hole in an iron block, is there?

Nope. Even if you did, it probably wouldn't handle the pressure of ignition. 

Good news is that if it's an old truck, you can get a 350/351/360 crate engine for a reasonable price.

[scar988]

On 5/20/2020 at 1:18 PM, bigbadbuff said:

Not sure if anyone has any experience with older classic cars.

I have an opportunity to buy a 1986 Camry with ~120k miles on it. CLEANNNNN

 

Any idea on how much it would be worth?

2-3k depending on how clean.