Home Improvement/Remodel Thread

[theJ]

2 hours ago, Tugboat said:

That's probably the right way to do it.  But everything here is built in a hurry, and easy.  The electrician who did some of the stuff originally was defs drunk, and almost nothing is actually labelled correctly.  And it's pretty much the same with any other panel i've worked around.

 

But not having wires out the sides probably makes things...not that much easier.

 

Is the panel not actually overlapping on the front of the studs at all like the graphic?  Like it's boxed in behind the wall face?  Or do the flanges stick out into the blue Stud areas?

The blue part is the panel sans cover.  The cover's flanges go past the studs maybe 3/4".  And the drywall is hacked past that.

[Hockey5djh]

1 hour ago, theJ said:

The blue part is the panel sans cover.  The cover's flanges go past the studs maybe 3/4".  And the drywall is hacked past that.

I feel like this discussion is over complicated for the job. Square off the opening outside the studs, screw the patches into the studs, tape/mud/sand/paint, finished.

If you're concerned about the other drywall put a couple support screws in the studs above and below the patches.

[theJ]

3 hours ago, Hockey5djh said:

I feel like this discussion is over complicated for the job. Square off the opening outside the studs, screw the patches into the studs, tape/mud/sand/paint, finished.

If you're concerned about the other drywall put a couple support screws in the studs above and below the patches.

Haha fair enough

[Tugboat]

5 hours ago, Hockey5djh said:

I feel like this discussion is over complicated for the job. Square off the opening outside the studs, screw the patches into the studs, tape/mud/sand/paint, finished.

If you're concerned about the other drywall put a couple support screws in the studs above and below the patches.

Probably.  You could just leave the patch hanging like that i guess and have a kinda flimsy wall.  But how you gonna screw drywall into the studs, if the electrical panel flange is overlapping it?   You're gonna have basically a piece of drywall hanging loose on either side, that's only really secured on one end...and you're gonna have to put a shim in there to screw it into in the first place...or have it hanging by like two screws and the top and bottom or something.  Seems kinda slapdash sloppy to me.

 

Unless you're going to square it off all the way to the next stud on either side, meaning you're cutting like 2 feet out of both sides.  Which is probably the best and easiest way to do it...but that's a lot.

[vike daddy]

12 hours ago, theJ said:

 

 

that's... aaaah... pretty ragged, yes...

• trim back the drywall horizontally above and below the box, then patch as has been suggested.
• trim the sides vertically back to the stud line, insert a 1 1/2" wide strip attached to the stud, and tape and fill with hot mud.
• fly vd out to job for final finish.

[theJ]

8 hours ago, vike daddy said:

• fly vd out to job for final finish.

I probably should.  My mud skills are at a 3rd grade level.

Thanks for the help!

[vike daddy]

1 hour ago, theJ said:

My mud skills are at a 3rd grade level.

well, should you just hire a drywall taper? the charge for making that clean should be... about $75.

[Hockey5djh]

10 hours ago, Tugboat said:

But how you gonna screw drywall into the studs, if the electrical panel flange is overlapping it? 

If that flange isn't moveable i'd cut the opening far enough outside of the flange that I could slide the patch under it and screw into the top and bottom of the patch.

[theJ]

1 hour ago, vike daddy said:

well, should you just hire a drywall taper? the charge for making that clean should be... about $75.

Probably, but i can't get better if i don't try!

8 minutes ago, Hockey5djh said:

If that flange isn't moveable i'd cut the opening far enough outside of the flange that I could slide the patch under it and screw into the top and bottom of the patch.

It's removable.  I'll be taking VD's approach.  If i remember, i'll post a picture.

[MWil23]

Come January, I'm laying 996 square feet of snap wood laminate. I would love for it to last 15+ years. Any recommended thickness in mm and recommendations aside from it being water resistant? I'm laying it in my bathrooms, kitchen, and main family rooms.

[Hockey5djh]

48 minutes ago, MWil23 said:

Come January, I'm laying 996 square feet of snap wood laminate. I would love for it to last 15+ years. Any recommended thickness in mm and recommendations aside from it being water resistant? I'm laying it in my bathrooms, kitchen, and main family rooms.

If you want higher quality I wouldn't go less than 10mm thickness. Don't skimp on the underlayment, there really isn't a huge difference in price from the cheap stuff to the nicer stuff. Personally i'd recommend a foam mixed with rubber. For the kitchen and Bathrooms if you want to go over the top I'd put a layer of plastic sheeting down under the underlayment to combat any moisture issues.

If you're doing it yourself make sure to make sure the subfloor is secured well and you get rid of the squeeks before laying the laminate. Also, don't line it up directly against the wall as walls aren't always straight.

[Hockey5djh]

Also, don't forget to give the flooring a few days in the house to "acclimate" before you do the job. Honestly, I don't know how much that actually does but it's an easy enough step to not skip.

[MWil23]

@Hockey5djh do I still want a sub flooring/foam pad if the laminate that I get already has the foam pad on underneath it?

[Hockey5djh]

1 hour ago, MWil23 said:

@Hockey5djh do I still want a sub flooring/foam pad if the laminate that I get already has the foam pad on underneath it?

No it's either the pad or the underlayment.

Subflooring is what you'll be putting everything down on (aka the plywood on the studs)

[theJ]

3 hours ago, Hockey5djh said:

Also, don't forget to give the flooring a few days in the house to "acclimate" before you do the job. Honestly, I don't know how much that actually does but it's an easy enough step to not skip.

At this time of year, it could make a big difference.  Wood movement is a real thing, especially if it was sitting in a cold truck overnight.  You basically want the temperature of the wood to match the interior temperature.

Moisture content is also a concern, but unless the humidity inside/outside is wildly different, that shouldn't be a big concern.