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I drive a 2017 Kia Optima but so bored with it. I really wanna buy a 2015 Lexus GS 350 F Sport (redesigned for 2016 and looks ugly as heck). I think ill save a little more and pay down my car a little more. 

Blehhh.. never buy new guys. Even with a 3,000 rebate and additional 1,000 off my car still depreciated like 25% basically instantly. Find a nice 3-4 year CPO and never new. 

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4 minutes ago, BayRaider said:

I drive a 2017 Kia Optima but so bored with it. I really wanna buy a 2015 Lexus GS 350 F Sport (redesigned for 2016 and looks ugly as heck). I think ill save a little more and pay down my car a little more. 

Blehhh.. never buy new guys. Even with a 3,000 rebate and additional 1,000 off my car still depreciated like 25% basically instantly. Find a nice 3-4 year CPO and never new. 

That’s definitely not always the case.

Look at used prices on vehicles like 4Runners, Tacomas, Toyota and Lexus in general, Jeep Wranglers, 4wd pickups and full-size SUV, etc and factor in the favorable interest rates for new cars as well as the factory warranty and sometimes it makes sense to buy new.

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1 minute ago, LETSGOBROWNIES said:

That’s definitely not always the case.

Look at used prices on vehicles like 4Runners, Tacomas, Toyota and Lexus in general, Jeep Wranglers, 4wd pickups and full-size SUV, etc and factor in the favorable interest rates for new cars as well as the factory warranty and sometimes it makes sense to buy new.

You can basically get almost any car 40-50% off MSRP if you wait four years and buy CPO with 30-35k miles on it. On a Lexus/Toyota that is nothing obviously, those cars go 300k if well maintained. 

For example, a new Camry is gonna run you 26k. A CPO 4 year Camry with 35k miles more like 14-15k. 

A new Lexus will run you 50k. 4 year CPO with 30k miles probably around 25-26k. 

The 0.9% interest stuff will only net you a few thousand in savings. 

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5 minutes ago, BayRaider said:

You can basically get almost any car 40-50% off MSRP if you wait four years and buy CPO with 30-35k miles on it. On a Lexus/Toyota that is nothing obviously, those cars go 300k if well maintained. 

For example, a new Camry is gonna run you 26k. A CPO 4 year Camry with 35k miles more like 14-15k. 

A new Lexus will run you 50k. 4 year CPO with 30k miles probably around 25-26k. 

The 0.9% interest stuff will only net you a few thousand in savings. 

Not gonna lie, never checked a lot of the cars as I don’t drive one, but for trucks/SUV’s that’s not always the case.

And with a used vehicle you’d don’t know what the previous owner was doing.  Again, probably not s concern with a Camry, but on vehicles that are used for towing/off-roading, it may matter.

And there’s the fact you’ll never have newer technology/features (which is never a concern with Toyotas anyway 😂), which may matter more to some than others.

Personally I’ve bought both new and used and it’s never been a big issue way.  If you want to save money on the long run, how you buy it isn’t usually the biggest factor, but rather how often you’re buying.  If money spent on transportation is the biggest issue, buy something reliable and run it till the wheels fall off.

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1 minute ago, LETSGOBROWNIES said:

Not gonna lie, never checked a lot of the cars as I don’t drive one, but for trucks/SUV’s that’s not always the case.

And with a used vehicle you’d don’t know what the previous owner was doing.  Again, probably not s concern with a Camry, but on vehicles that are used for towing/off-roading, it may matter.

And there’s the fact you’ll never have newer technology/features (which is never a concern with Toyotas anyway 😂), which may matter more to some than others.

Personally I’ve bought both new and used and it’s never been a big issue way.  If you want to save money on the long run, how you buy it isn’t usually the biggest factor, but rather how often you’re buying.  If money spent on transportation is the biggest issue, buy something reliable and run it till the wheels fall off.

Every car comes with solid technology these days starting in 2016 or so. Have to get at least the middle trim though. Middle trim on almost every single car make has a nice 10in screen, back AC, heated seats, and blind spot monitoring. Ill never buy a base trim for any car again tbh. 

Also for the warranty stuff, CPOs come with a year of unlimited miles on top of the remaining factory warranty after it is over, and usually like two years free service/maintenance. These things are not an option in new unless you buy. 

If you got cash or enough for a huge down payment, and just really want to enjoy a new car, then absolutely enjoy yourself. Only live once. But I think CPO a 3-4 year car is the best. Unless it’s a German car like BMW, Audi, Mercedes, those are best for leasing and always have issues after that 50k warranty. 

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7 minutes ago, BayRaider said:

Every car comes with solid technology these days starting in 2016 or so. Have to get at least the middle trim though. Middle trim on almost every single car make has a nice 10in screen, back AC, heated seats, and blind spot monitoring. Ill never buy a base trim for any car again tbh. 

Google the new Toyota Tundra.  The. google the ‘09 Tundra.  Try to spot the differences 😂 

Toyota ain’t quick to bring technology to market, but once it does it’s sorted out.

7 minutes ago, BayRaider said:

Also for the warranty stuff, CPOs come with a year of unlimited miles on top of the remaining factory warranty after it is over, and usually like two years free service/maintenance. These things are not an option in new unless you buy. 

If you got cash or enough for a huge down payment, and just really want to enjoy a new car, then absolutely enjoy yourself. Only live once. But I think CPO a 3-4 year car is the best. Unless it’s a German car like BMW, Audi, Mercedes, those are best for leasing and always have issues after that 50k warranty. 

I can appreciate this.

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Does anyone have an idea what new sparkplugs, brakes and a transmission flush would cost?

My 2009 Sportage runs great but is nearing 100k miles so it is going to need some maintenance. Considering it is probably only worth ~$3k at this point, I'm wondering if I should just upgrade instead of spending a bunch of money on maintenance.

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1 hour ago, Heimdallr said:

Does anyone have an idea what new sparkplugs, brakes and a transmission flush would cost?

My 2009 Sportage runs great but is nearing 100k miles so it is going to need some maintenance. Considering it is probably only worth ~$3k at this point, I'm wondering if I should just upgrade instead of spending a bunch of money on maintenance.

Brakes should be $150-$200. Transmission fluid change will be $80-$150. Do the plugs yourself.

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6 hours ago, Heimdallr said:

Does anyone have an idea what new sparkplugs, brakes and a transmission flush would cost?

My 2009 Sportage runs great but is nearing 100k miles so it is going to need some maintenance. Considering it is probably only worth ~$3k at this point, I'm wondering if I should just upgrade instead of spending a bunch of money on maintenance.

All depends if you want a car payment or not. If you have kept the car 10 years (bought it new) you definitely deserve a different car. But if you wanna save money, then I’d run it more to 130-135k. 

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On 02/08/2019 at 7:14 AM, Heimdallr said:

Does anyone have an idea what new sparkplugs, brakes and a transmission flush would cost?

My 2009 Sportage runs great but is nearing 100k miles so it is going to need some maintenance. Considering it is probably only worth ~$3k at this point, I'm wondering if I should just upgrade instead of spending a bunch of money on maintenance.

This list of service sounds like a sketchy 3rd party shop list of "things to charge customer for".

You're talking all 4 wheel brakes, all at the same time?  Unusual for front and rear brakes to wear at the same rate and need replacement at the same time imo.

A transmission flush is often strictly NOT recommended by many manufacturers with many modern cars and transmissions, and can actually be detrimental tbh.

And sparkplugs are exceptionally cheap and easy to swap out.  It's the ignition coils that are usually more costly.

 

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1 minute ago, Tugboat said:

This list of service sounds like a sketchy 3rd party shop list of "things to charge customer for".

You're talking all 4 wheel brakes, all at the same time?  Unusual for front and rear brakes to wear at the same rate and need replacement at the same time imo.

A transmission flush is often strictly NOT recommended by many manufacturers with many modern cars and transmissions, and can actually be detrimental tbh.

And sparkplugs are exceptionally cheap and easy to swap out.  It's the ignition coils that are usually more costly.

 

Yep, i was going to post something similar.

The bolded part may have been a typo, but i've never had a car with front/rears that needed changed at the same time.  They always wear at a different rate because the fronts take more of the braking force.

And yeah, i wouldn't do anything with the transmission fluid either. 

The spark plug thing - not sure who recommended that or why.  If you have a "high value car" (high mileage) and it's still running fine, there's probably little reason to change them out.  They're cheap, and you can do it, but probably not a lot of benefit.

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