The Car Thread

[Tugboat]

On 22/07/2019 at 2:03 PM, BayRaider said:

What’s your price range?

Most reliable car on the planet is Toyota/Lexus (same company). VW is cr** for reliability. 

If your price range is like 10k, go for a 2012ish Camry with 80-100k miles on it if you can find one. 

If your price range is more like 15-20k, find a Certified Used Camry from an Official Toyota Dealership that’s 3-4 years old with 50k miles or less on it. 

Lookin to get fancy? For 25-28k you can get a Certified Used Lexus and drive in style. 

Also dealerships aren’t bad if you know what you are doing. Especially an AutoNation Dealership. They have no haggle pricing, and give you max value for trade in. 

Use http://cargurus.com best site to use by far. Like google for cars and tells you if it’s good value. 

Toyota is wildly overrated these days.  They're cruising so hard on reputation at this point.  The one thing they really still have left, is resale value that comes from that reputation.  But if that ever starts to collapse...It's like real-estate speculation on the edge of a bubble, but with cars, which seems worse.

 

VW really is trash when it comes to reliability.  They used to be like Toyota, but when it came to mechanical stuff.  VW used to have amazingly well engineered and reliable, long-lasting cars that were always kinda let down by occasionally finnicky electronics.  Now, they've decided to push towards Toyota sales volume and cut corners everywhere, while adding even more of the sophisticated electronics they've always seemed to be bad at.  So they've basically lost all the engineering and quality mechanical elements that made them special...but somehow kept all the weird electrical nonsense.  Basically all they've got left at this point is style and materials quality, especially on the interior.  And that's important.  But yikes.

If you want a well built car these days that's good value, probably go buy a Buick or something.  Weird as that may sound.

[Tugboat]

5 minutes ago, theJ said:

Yep, i was going to post something similar.

The bolded part may have been a typo, but i've never had a car with front/rears that needed changed at the same time.  They always wear at a different rate because the fronts take more of the braking force.

Definitely was not a typo.  I meant exactly that.  It really is unusual for front/rear brakes to wear at the same rate and need replacement at the same time.  For exactly the reason you described.

[theJ]

2 minutes ago, Tugboat said:

Definitely was not a typo.  I meant exactly that.  It really is unusual for front/rear brakes to wear at the same rate and need replacement at the same time.  For exactly the reason you described.

*picard facepalm*

I read the sentence wrong the first time.

[Tugboat]

On 22/07/2019 at 1:41 PM, MOSteelers56 said:

So I need some advice. I'm awful at this stuff.

So I currently own a 2014 VW Passat. A year from this month it'll be paid off. It is getting kind of hard to keep it up. Little things keep going wrong and they're expensive to fix. It has around 100K miles on it. I would like to trade it in and get a toyota car or something else reliable. I'm looking for gas mileage and longevity. Due to some pretty terrible dealership experiences(and having heard that dealerships are not great to do a trade in) I think I will try to do it at a used car lot or something like that. I have heard that I should pick out the car I'd like to buy before I say anything about doing a trade in and I should try and haggle the price down and go as far as I can(which I don't know how to do). Does anyone have any advice, recommendations, tips and tricks for buying used and with a trade in? I'm not super picky about looks of cars, I just want something that is reliable and drives ok.

Dealerships are notoriously terrible for giving value on a "trade-in".  They're basically just gonna give you what your car would go for at auction, 'cause there's no way they're gonna move it on their own lot and even sales managers aren't really greenlit to "speculate" on a car they might be able to make more on than auction value, because again...they're not going to actually move it on their lot unless it's a lease return or something from their own brand or something they can CPO.

Part of what you have to figure into the equation though, especially if you're financing the new vehicle...is that even at a lowball "trade-in" value, you can generally leverage that into bringing down the price/payments by quite a bit, screwing with the de facto "down payment" stuff to potentially pay less interest over time.  ie.  The more you can put down, even if it's a "lowball" trade-in value to throw into it, can still be valuable if it saves you interest in the long-run because you're financing a small amount to start with, depending on how you're financing the vehicle.  Have to sit there and do some math, but it can work out favorably to just use your car as trade-in down payment though.  Which is pretty much why it's always recommended that you never just walk in and buy a car on the spot.  Drive it, talk about it, get figures written down.  Go home and think about it and do the math properly.  Go back if it checks out.  Plus, time to let the vehicle and price percolate and see if it still feels right to you in a few days or whatever.

Private sale is pretty much always where you're going to get the most "value" for your car.  But it's an enormously large hassle, and if you can't afford to take on a new car while holding the old one for an indefinite period...it's obviously a non-starter.

 

If you're working with a "used car dealership"...you might be able to get a solid offer on your current car toward a different one.  But i'd proceed with a lot of caution.  I'd check everything over with a fine-toothed comb.  And more than anything, i'd insist on having a mechanic shop i trust give it a 3rd party inspection before i put down any kind of serious offer of any real money.  If they get spooked and offended at the idea...there's probably a reason.  The whole, "nothing to fear if you ain't got nothin' to hide" sort of cliche.  The reality is...you could get a decent car from a used car lot, or you could get a total piece of garbage.  Used car lots are basically where your car probably ends up if you trade it in somewhere.  Via the auction process...where that used car dealership bids on your car thinking they can sell it for more than they buy it for.  Food for thought.

[Tugboat]

26 minutes ago, theJ said:

*picard facepalm*

I read the sentence wrong the first time.

No biggie.  I read sentences wrong all the time here.  I blame the forum format.

 

 

But also probably the bourbon.

[theJ]

5 minutes ago, Tugboat said:

Private sale is pretty much always where you're going to get the most "value" for your car.  But it's an enormously large hassle, and if you can't afford to take on a new car while holding the old one for an indefinite period...it's obviously a non-starter.

 

I've done this a few times, and i've not thought it a big hassle.  I've actually always thought dealing with the dealerships was a bigger hassle.  Yeah you may have to talk to a few more people when selling private, but the haggling takes much less time.

You make a good point on the timing of the sell though.  Having it roll into one transaction makes it more palatable for those who don't have cash offhand to purchase something new.

[Tugboat]

7 minutes ago, theJ said:

I've done this a few times, and i've not thought it a big hassle.  I've actually always thought dealing with the dealerships was a bigger hassle.  Yeah you may have to talk to a few more people when selling private, but the haggling takes much less time.

You make a good point on the timing of the sell though.  Having it roll into one transaction makes it more palatable for those who don't have cash offhand to purchase something new.

I think it kinda depends on the specific car you're selling too.  Certain cars, people will be after specifically and they'll seek you out and make serious offers.  Other more generic types of cars...you're probably just going to get inundated with people wanting a cheap "whatever" car at the least they can pay for it.  Less than serious.  And you have to find the time to figure that out and probably even take them for a "test drive".  Not easy for a lot of people.

Also can depend on your "connections", if you know somebody who is a sort of linchpin in that particular brand that can hook up buyers with sellers.  Helps a lot.

 

But in any case, it's almost always worth it...*if* you can afford to carry two cars for an indefinite period of time.  If not, just putting that money into a down-payment and accepting that you'll make up some of the difference to a private sale over time by saving on interesting, is probably the smarter and easier play.

[49ersfan]

5 hours ago, Tugboat said:

Toyota is wildly overrated these days.  They're cruising so hard on reputation at this point.  The one thing they really still have left, is resale value that comes from that reputation.  But if that ever starts to collapse...It's like real-estate speculation on the edge of a bubble, but with cars, which seems worse.

 

VW really is trash when it comes to reliability.  They used to be like Toyota, but when it came to mechanical stuff.  VW used to have amazingly well engineered and reliable, long-lasting cars that were always kinda let down by occasionally finnicky electronics.  Now, they've decided to push towards Toyota sales volume and cut corners everywhere, while adding even more of the sophisticated electronics they've always seemed to be bad at.  So they've basically lost all the engineering and quality mechanical elements that made them special...but somehow kept all the weird electrical nonsense.  Basically all they've got left at this point is style and materials quality, especially on the interior.  And that's important.  But yikes.

If you want a well built car these days that's good value, probably go buy a Buick or something.  Weird as that may sound.

I actually heard Honda's reliability was the one that has gone down lately. Didn't the 2017 Civics have a oil dilution issue that needed a recall? And according to the article below, they were ranked at 15th for reliability. From all the research i did when i was looking into cars a few months ago, Toyota was still the most reliable

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimgorzelany/2018/10/25/the-most-and-least-reliable-rides-on-the-road/#ef82e6452c74

We had an Acura in the family for 15 years, the old school Honda/Acura were very reliable. But the stuff i've heard recently about Honda turned me away from the brand recently.

I ended up buying a 2018 Mazda 3 (new), but my backup was the Corolla (new or used). If my budget was a little bigger, i would have gotten a new Model 3, but its just too expensive for now. 

 

 

[BayRaider]

9 hours ago, Tugboat said:

Toyota is wildly overrated these days.  They're cruising so hard on reputation at this point.  The one thing they really still have left, is resale value that comes from that reputation.  But if that ever starts to collapse...It's like real-estate speculation on the edge of a bubble, but with cars, which seems worse.

 

VW really is trash when it comes to reliability.  They used to be like Toyota, but when it came to mechanical stuff.  VW used to have amazingly well engineered and reliable, long-lasting cars that were always kinda let down by occasionally finnicky electronics.  Now, they've decided to push towards Toyota sales volume and cut corners everywhere, while adding even more of the sophisticated electronics they've always seemed to be bad at.  So they've basically lost all the engineering and quality mechanical elements that made them special...but somehow kept all the weird electrical nonsense.  Basically all they've got left at this point is style and materials quality, especially on the interior.  And that's important.  But yikes.

If you want a well built car these days that's good value, probably go buy a Buick or something.  Weird as that may sound.

Kia also has become quite reliable with their new engines in 2016. They ranked 3rd in reliability behind Lexus and Toyota. I think Buick was 4th so you are correct about that. But jeeze are buicks ugly. I have a 2017 Kia Optima and actually might stay with Kia and get a Kia Stinger in a few years, that thing is sweet looking. 

3 hours ago, 49ersfan said:

I actually heard Honda's reliability was the one that has gone down lately. Didn't the 2017 Civics have a oil dilution issue that needed a recall? And according to the article below, they were ranked at 15th for reliability. From all the research i did when i was looking into cars a few months ago, Toyota was still the most reliable

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimgorzelany/2018/10/25/the-most-and-least-reliable-rides-on-the-road/#ef82e6452c74

We had an Acura in the family for 15 years, the old school Honda/Acura were very reliable. But the stuff i've heard recently about Honda turned me away from the brand recently.

I ended up buying a 2018 Mazda 3 (new), but my backup was the Corolla (new or used). If my budget was a little bigger, i would have gotten a new Model 3, but its just too expensive for now. 

 

 

The last year Honda was reliable was 2005 for the Civic and 2007 for the Accord. After that their reliability was absolutely atrocious. Right now they are about 15th among car makes in reliability which is like a D+.

From the early 80’s to 2007 though, Honda was right there with Toyota though in terms of reliability.  

Edited August 5, 2019 by BayRaider

[49ersfan]

I'm getting a wrench symbol on my dash for my 2018 Mazda 3 (bought new in April 2019). I checked the owners manual and the mazda website, its basically an indicator for an oil change. But i'm supposed to get it done every 6 months/8000 km and i currently only have had it for 4 months/4800 KM. Guess i'll have to call the dealership and ask them to take a look, see if it needs an oil change. 

I've tried resetting the computer but that doesn't work. I suspect that the service department set the computer up for me to come in more frequently, but who knows. I'll get it looked at, and get a 2nd opinion from a local mechanic i trust if need be.

[MrDrew]

10 hours ago, 49ersfan said:

I'm getting a wrench symbol on my dash for my 2018 Mazda 3 (bought new in April 2019). I checked the owners manual and the mazda website, its basically an indicator for an oil change. But i'm supposed to get it done every 6 months/8000 km and i currently only have had it for 4 months/4800 KM. Guess i'll have to call the dealership and ask them to take a look, see if it needs an oil change. 

I've tried resetting the computer but that doesn't work. I suspect that the service department set the computer up for me to come in more frequently, but who knows. I'll get it looked at, and get a 2nd opinion from a local mechanic i trust if need be.

Check your oil. If you’ve burned a quart, it’s time to change it. If not, you’re good. 8,000km should be about the time you would consider it on a car that new. The deal ships like to tell you more frequently because it makes them more money. 
if you check it, and it’s black, smells burnt, and is below the low line on the dipstick, change it. 

[49ersfan]

13 hours ago, MrDrew said:

Check your oil. If you’ve burned a quart, it’s time to change it. If not, you’re good. 8,000km should be about the time you would consider it on a car that new. The deal ships like to tell you more frequently because it makes them more money. 
if you check it, and it’s black, smells burnt, and is below the low line on the dipstick, change it. 

Did that today....the oil level was above the high line, it didn't smell burnt, and it didn't look black. 

I think its just a case of the dealership setting the computer up for more frequent service intervals. I'll keep monitoring but it looks good for now. Thanks for your help!

[LETSGOBROWNIES]

22 hours ago, 49ersfan said:

Did that today....the oil level was above the high line, it didn't smell burnt, and it didn't look black. 

I think its just a case of the dealership setting the computer up for more frequent service intervals. I'll keep monitoring but it looks good for now. Thanks for your help!

Buy a scanner and find out.

[Tugboat]

On 14/08/2019 at 8:47 PM, 49ersfan said:

I'm getting a wrench symbol on my dash for my 2018 Mazda 3 (bought new in April 2019). I checked the owners manual and the mazda website, its basically an indicator for an oil change. But i'm supposed to get it done every 6 months/8000 km and i currently only have had it for 4 months/4800 KM. Guess i'll have to call the dealership and ask them to take a look, see if it needs an oil change. 

I've tried resetting the computer but that doesn't work. I suspect that the service department set the computer up for me to come in more frequently, but who knows. I'll get it looked at, and get a 2nd opinion from a local mechanic i trust if need be.

Depending on the car and the motor, the first oil change is often a much shorter interval during the "break-in" period.  It's generally good practice to get that original oil out a bit earlier, since it tends to accumulate a bit more metallic particulates than usual as the engine wears in.  Gives you a chance to make sure there's not any unusual or concerning wear going on too.

 

After that first change, your intervals will probably jump up to that 8000km range you're expecting.

[diehardlionfan]

On 2019-08-14 at 10:47 PM, 49ersfan said:

I'm getting a wrench symbol on my dash for my 2018 Mazda 3 (bought new in April 2019). I checked the owners manual and the mazda website, its basically an indicator for an oil change. But i'm supposed to get it done every 6 months/8000 km and i currently only have had it for 4 months/4800 KM. Guess i'll have to call the dealership and ask them to take a look, see if it needs an oil change. 

I've tried resetting the computer but that doesn't work. I suspect that the service department set the computer up for me to come in more frequently, but who knows. I'll get it looked at, and get a 2nd opinion from a local mechanic i trust if need be.

Talking to the service department is wise. New engines are run prior to installation, have the oil changed, placed in the vehicle and shipped. You certainly shouldn’t be getting an indication this early..

Years ago the first thing you did was dump the oil on a new vehicle to get any shavings or contaminants out of the engine.