Home Improvement/Remodel Thread

[Jlash]

5 hours ago, CBears019 said:

Anyone have good recommendations for a weed/feed spray?  The weeds in my yard have gotten out of control and i don’t have the experience/knowledge to maintain a lawn just yet.

What kind of weeds you looking at? Google some pics of what you see and let me know. 

[CBears019]

5 hours ago, Jlash said:

What kind of weeds you looking at? Google some pics of what you see and let me know. 

Not sure if I’ll be able to identify all of them, but definitely dandelions, crab grass, spotted spurge, broadleafs, and clover.  Could be more though.

[Ty21]

11 hours ago, CBears019 said:

Anyone have good recommendations for a weed/feed spray?  The weeds in my yard have gotten out of control and i don’t have the experience/knowledge to maintain a lawn just yet.

You really want this huh 

[Jlash]

6 hours ago, CBears019 said:

Not sure if I’ll be able to identify all of them, but definitely dandelions, crab grass, spotted spurge, broadleafs, and clover.  Could be more though.

Alright, well there's no cure all for all of them but something like Q4 will get a good chunk of them. I haven't been getting much control of spurge with it this year, but it does great with crabgrass (now that it's mature it's easier to kill believe it or not) and covers a large number of broadleafs. 

You can find that on Amazon or one of the "Do your own" sites or some home depots may carry small bottles of it too. 

So essentially if you want them all gone, you gotta do it in stages. You can come back later on with another/different herbicide to get spurge and whatever other tough weeds may be left.  If you need help with mixing rates to spray so you don't cook your lawn let me know. 

[CBears019]

1 hour ago, Jlash said:

Alright, well there's no cure all for all of them but something like Q4 will get a good chunk of them. I haven't been getting much control of spurge with it this year, but it does great with crabgrass (now that it's mature it's easier to kill believe it or not) and covers a large number of broadleafs. 

You can find that on Amazon or one of the "Do your own" sites or some home depots may carry small bottles of it too. 

So essentially if you want them all gone, you gotta do it in stages. You can come back later on with another/different herbicide to get spurge and whatever other tough weeds may be left.  If you need help with mixing rates to spray so you don't cook your lawn let me know. 

How long should i wait between applications?

[Jlash]

5 hours ago, CBears019 said:

How long should i wait between applications?

Depends, if it's bad enough and you want to seed whatever bare spots you have, that changes thing. But if you just want to knock all the weeds out and worry about the after math later, it's usually a couple weeks.

[CBears019]

8 minutes ago, Jlash said:

Depends, if it's bad enough and you want to seed whatever bare spots you have, that changes thing. But if you just want to knock all the weeds out and worry about the after math later, it's usually a couple weeks.

Yeah at this point I’m more concerned about getting rid of the weeds.

[Heimdallr]

hot take: clover lawns are far superior to grass

[Jlash]

1 hour ago, CBears019 said:

Yeah at this point I’m more concerned about getting rid of the weeds.

All good. Start with Q4 and let me know.

[Jlash]

1 hour ago, Heimdallr said:

hot take: clover lawns are far superior to grass

[AFlaccoSeagulls]

Hello fellow adults.

Several months ago the toilet in our downstairs bathroom flooded. We got the water cleaned up almost immediately and got the toilet fixed, but about currently in one of the corners we see the wall has "bowed" in a little bit and there's a couple of small mold spots.

I'm wondering what's the best way to get this looked at? We have home insurance, so do we go through them or do we just reach out to contractors directly and not go through insurance?

[MWil23]

6 minutes ago, AFlaccoSeagulls said:

Hello fellow adults.

Several months ago the toilet in our downstairs bathroom flooded. We got the water cleaned up almost immediately and got the toilet fixed, but about currently in one of the corners we see the wall has "bowed" in a little bit and there's a couple of small mold spots.

I'm wondering what's the best way to get this looked at? We have home insurance, so do we go through them or do we just reach out to contractors directly and not go through insurance?

I'd reach out to a contractor who is a plumber and get them to assess and give a basic quote writeup. It sounds like BEST CASE SCENARIO is you have to replace drywall and insulation.

Worst case scenario, there's a leak behind that and they need to fix the leak plus the other. 

Depending upon the deductible per your home-owners policy, that will tell you whether or not to get a policy claim submitted.

I'd still recommend giving your insurance a heads up just in case something surfaces or resurfaces down the road.

[AFlaccoSeagulls]

30 minutes ago, MWil23 said:

I'd reach out to a contractor who is a plumber and get them to assess and give a basic quote writeup. It sounds like BEST CASE SCENARIO is you have to replace drywall and insulation.

Worst case scenario, there's a leak behind that and they need to fix the leak plus the other. 

Depending upon the deductible per your home-owners policy, that will tell you whether or not to get a policy claim submitted.

I'd still recommend giving your insurance a heads up just in case something surfaces or resurfaces down the road.

My deductible is $1,000, and as someone who has never filed a claim for anything I have no idea what that means tbh lol

My policy says we're covered for $195,000 for dwelling and $1,330 for private structures. Not sure which of those this would fall under.

[MWil23]

5 minutes ago, AFlaccoSeagulls said:

My deductible is $1,000, and as someone who has never filed a claim for anything I have no idea what that means tbh lol

TL;DR

It means that assuming the insurance company investigates and finds that your claim is legitimate (usually they do), then you will have to pay $1,000 out of pocket for repairs. So, let's say that your contractor gives you an estimate to fix it for $300...then you should just pay the $300 out of pocket and fix it and bypass insurance.

However, let's say that it's going to cost $3,000. Then you should file a claim, pay your $1,000 deductible, and typically they'll either pay the bill directly or cut you a check.

While I don't condone it because you could theoretically get into some trouble, if you were an AWESOME DIY person, you could conceivably pocket the cash and fix it yourself...typically labor is 1/2 of the cost.

5 minutes ago, AFlaccoSeagulls said:

My policy says we're covered for $195,000 for dwelling and $1,330 for private structures. Not sure which of those this would fall under.

Since this is a dwelling/house issue, they'll cover up to $195,000 in damages. A "private structure" would generally be something like a fence, detached garage, or shed.

As long as you don't have really any of those, then there's no need for a big private structure policy. However, if you have a detached garage or pole barn and something happens to it (I.E. a tree falls onto it and destroys the roof and trusses), then you're screwed and not covered.

Edited September 6, 2022 by MWil23

[AFlaccoSeagulls]

30 minutes ago, MWil23 said:

TL;DR

It means that assuming the insurance company investigates and finds that your claim is legitimate (usually they do), then you will have to pay $1,000 out of pocket for repairs. So, let's say that your contractor gives you an estimate to fix it for $300...then you should just pay the $300 out of pocket and fix it and bypass insurance.

However, let's say that it's going to cost $3,000. Then you should file a claim, pay your $1,000 deductible, and typically they'll either pay the bill directly or cut you a check.

While I don't condone it because you could theoretically get into some trouble, if you were an AWESOME DIY person, you could conceivably pocket the cash and fix it yourself...typically labor is 1/2 of the cost.

Since this is a dwelling/house issue, they'll cover up to $195,000 in damages. A "private structure" would generally be something like a fence, detached garage, or shed.

As long as you don't have really any of those, then there's no need for a big private structure policy. However, if you have a detached garage or pole barn and something happens to it (I.E. a tree falls onto it and destroys the roof and trusses), then you're screwed and not covered.

Thanks for explaining all of this - makes perfect sense.

For the last 2 paragraphs...we have an HOA which covers the exterior and maintenance of our exterior features (like our backyard fence). We're technically a "condo" because both side walls are shared with other units so no real private structures to even speak of, and if we did have them, they're covered by HOA.